Tassles and Silk Scarves

This is really not an important posting... but some students have been asking about the silks I have on my sabre, and about tassles traditionally found on Chinese swords. If using the correct movements done with smoothness and even pace, tassles and silks should sinuously follow the movement of the blade, rather than getting tangled up. Some postures in the Northern Sabre Form, such as Phoenix Fist, appear stealthily from behind the silks, so they have a real use at that moment.

Anyway, it's a matter of personal choice, so if you intend attaching silks to your sabre here's a few guidelines. Do not tie your silks or scarf to the ring of the handle; this would be extremely foolish in a martial situation as all anyone would need to do to disarm you would be to pull the scarf! Also, keep the size of the scarves to less than 12". Anything dangling more than that will get in the way rather than show you how smoothly you are moving. On my sabre I have 2 x 12' squares. I made them from light, fine silk from Liberty's and then hemmed them by machine. They are attached to the nut inside the end ring by means of the little loop of wire that previously held the gaudy gold chain to the scabbard, strong florist's wire would do the job. It is important that, if pulled, the silks will come away from the sabre, for the reasons mentioned above. Tassles are appropriate for straight swords and are usually knotted from just one continuous piece of cord, which is considered auspicious. These can be bought inexpensively on the web from any martial arts weapons supplier. If you are a crafter, you could even download instructions for knotting your own.

Students also asked about the leather wrapping on my sabre handle. When I bought my sabre it had the standard lacquered finish: very slippy and highly impractical. Mark cut leather from a charity shop jacket and glued it spiral-wise onto the handle after removing the jagged gold metal end piece by the guard. The new sabres with wooden handles don't need this treatment as the wood is lovely to hold and does not slip. The 'super gold Chinese metal' fittings that are so popular on weapons of this grade are a bit 'bling' for me, so you'll notice they've been antiqued. The fittings were all removed (except the genuine brass guard) and Nitromors applied to remove the lacquer. Then they were rubbed with salt and stood in a little salty water, turning every few hours, rubbing them occasionally and re salting. Adding vinegar gives a slightly too corroded look. After a day or two they were looking great. They were cleaned and re-fitted and now look alot more tasteful. I guess you could say that we 'un-pimped my sabre'.

Now, I must get back to counting those angels dancing on the head of a pin.